Відео

Thank you for your demonstration. If you buy the risers I would appreciate seeing you cut after it is put on the risers. Also demonstrate how to engrave on glass etc

Canada robs people when shipping

I think the most expensive square I have is a $16 7" speed square that I can't even remember the brand name of. I also have a machinist square, a combination square and a framing square, the only one of which I know the brand of, it being an ACE Hardware store brand. I did this test on them some time ago and they're all pretty reliably square. Oh, and Irwin is still around...at least it is here in southern Indiana as our local Ace carries a lot of their stuff, along with Craftsman, Milwaukee, DeWalt and Stihl.

as a professional cabinetmaker in germany, i'm always amazed at how much money goes into these youtube garage shops. here, for example, i see festo tools worth easily 10,000 - 15,000 euros, not to mention all the expensive unnecessary hobby tools, festo is one of the most expensive tools a carpenter can have, if he can afford it. Just to make a few boxes in a garage from time to time, or better, one unnecessary workbench after another. often not even professional workshops have the youtube equipment and still produce better quality. so i often wonder what you guys do in your jobs to afford all this expensive tools. in my opinion, it's not what tools do, but the skills of a person. sorry to bring this up, but these garage youtube videos are getting excessive

Thinking about picking one up. What's the approximate weight of the whole kit package?

Extra: How square do you need? Most agree you need more square for metal working than wood…but even if putting up a stud partition wall and you need to trim a 7 foot long plasterboard, small inaccuracies grow over distance. So 1 mm out on a 12” square becomes a 7mm gap or bad overlap on your plasterboard sheet. As a general rule, if you can detect an ‘out of square’ fit by eye, then that is too much, and most human eyes are pretty good at that.

You can have a few ‘square’ tools in a workshop, but you must have at least one which you can rely on to be properly square for when that really matters. I bought the Woodpeckers over priced 1281, but it is bang on square. Unfortunately the blade is so thick that parallax is an issue when marking (you have to view the scale with one eye from dead perpendicular over it). I also purchased a Presch brand combination square, which is also a dead on accurate. My mini engineers square is ok for saw blades but extending short squares any distance is bound to produce errors. My worst is a 7” 15 quid, aluminium square from Amazon, Chinese I think. It is about a millimetre under square at the end of its blade; if extended out by the time you get to a metre (3 feet) it will be out by a quarter inch! I need a big layout square, like two feet….but these are hard to find where people have anything good to report, and I can’t afford more Woodpeckers! I am considering just making a big plywood triangle like a rafter square, which I can ensure is true by my old friend Pythagorus….He never lets me down on accuracy.

does anyone know the REAL dimensions of the Makita? Such as how high is it to the deck and the width without the metal extensions and the depth etc?

Great video but would you go with S1 40w or Falcon pro and I am considering the P2👍🏻

Good, clear instructions. I bought "A matched pair, side by each" of 4212's separately in the mid/late '90's then added the 4215 miniature template a couple of years later at the old shop and they all work extremely well. They're great for cookie-cutter cabinets, boxes, etc., projects for the shop and so forth. Now, with a smaller shop, yet, with many additional chisels, hand saws, bench planes, "And more!", they're still useful on occasion.

That type of hose adapter breaks after a few months

Now I can't use my machine, I keep getting an error code M363 S4. I installed the raiser (the one that doesn't open up) Is it because my material is not thick enough to reach the sensor stick? What settings or modes do I need to input in the creative space so that I don't need to remove the riser even when not using something tall?

seems a waste of money.

This is great. Did you say you were building some others to make up costs?

i am so getting this!

Try a 4ah battery as for the small battery your using is not providing the power you need to fire up the air compressor youll find bigger battery more humph

I build birdhouses. I would say 1/16th will pass. My 82 year old eyes can't see much closer than that.

Any thoughts on the Makita after 1yr??

Very informative since I had a different laser company reach out to me wanting to send me their laser so I could do a video review. I’ve been trying to watch a few videos to see what laser engraving is all about.

Thank you, sir. You just saved me a LOT of additional research!

Who did you get the table top from?

What bothers me is that Festool has no intention to build a 12v system. I want to buy a new 12v drill to replace my Bosch GSR 12V-15. But with Bosch I can buy (if needed) a whole range of tools that use the same battery (like the sanders that are awesome). With Festool I only have the drill in 2 different forms and that's it.

Does loosening the clamp pressure relieve this issue?

An unboxing video is ridiculous , I can get that from the manufacturer. USE the machine then post review.

Buy another fixed base for your router table, I did, and it came with a router, an older 1617 without the variable speed for less than the price of a new fixed base! You can even take off the handles to make more room under your table. And they are bushings not templates.

should I get the 20w to start or 40w? I want to make wedding invitations with it too. I see that the cutting on this machine cuts them perfect. I got a Cricut machine and this will take it to another level.

I got my PC dovetail jig a couple weeks ago and wanted to use it today. Sadly I also have a Bosch router.

I've used both rigorously and 100% will always prefer dewalt. I noticed when you clamped the festool track it was bouncing vs dewalt. Dewalt clamps are better. The tracks are not omni directional. Sorry festool is over priced german fire pit fuel for me. The dust.... Like a chef if you can't stand the heat get out of the kitchen.. I can go on and on about festool and what I dislike about it.

I’ve been in the market for one. Thanks for the review.

Thanks for the details. I've been sitting on my hands about this for a while now. 5k, though... shazam.

I have been following your channel for a few years as my space and location are very similar to yours. A similar electrical upgrade should be in the cards for me next year. I’ve watched each of your shop tour videos multiple times for inspiration. If you have enough time and content for another tour, I’ll gladly watch it a few times. Keep it up!

hello fro, sarnia and a fellow woodworker. my shop is very well wired, i did it over the years and in retrospect it would have much easier at the beginning! the main 200 amp panel for the house is located in the garage. i heat the garage which is a medium double car, with natural gas but i,am installing a minisplit heat pump shortly, this will require a subpanel as the main panel is full lighting in my shop/garage is with 2 ceiling fans and 4 highbay commercial led fixtures on two switches for two levels of lighting. there are also 2 garage door openers. i have 2 30 amp 240 volt circuits for heavy machinery and record dust extractor/cyclone system. my biggewst motor is a very old 4 hp in my 1950's planer, the rest are 2 hp. the 30 amp machinery circuit has 5 outlets and the dust collector has one. i have 3 15 amp 120 volt circuits with outlets all around the walls. all outlet boxes are doubles, so 4 plugs can be used at each location, i am never more than 6 feet from an outlet except in the center of the garage i very rarely trip a breaker of course and never one in the house the new subpanel will allow separation of a couple of things, the pool pump and a dedicated circuit for out travel trailer(30 amp/120 volt). it will also allow adding ev charging if we ever go that way i'm surprised that the original garage circuit was combined with the living room , that has been disallowed by ontario code for a long time, exterior outlets also have to be on a dedicated circuit and must gfci protected

What about insulation? I see the open stud bays with the old white paint. Those can be filled with bats for cheap. Staple gun and go. The ceiling is much more difficult because of decisions. Drywall and what height. It is possible to do it cheaply using thin 1/8 or 1/4 sheets and solid foam insulation. Tape it with Tyvek tape to hold it together and let it float up there. Very difficult to deal with. My garage had half drywall to code and the other half was wide open. Took years to finish. Putting up insulation a few rolls at a time. Drywalling slowly after that.

Wow Cole I didn’t realize your power was so limited. Enjoy the upgrade!

My garage is on a 15A circuit. I do have 2 circuits for a water heater and a dryer that were replaced with gas, so there is room for expansion. Good job on the upgrade, the conduit looks good.

whats that next to the fuse box big silver thing is it a fridge ??

Congrats on the upgrade! I'm still on the "single 20 amp outlet and multiple extension cords" phase. 😅

New subscriber! Thanks for the valuable information about this dovetail kit! I just purchased this model then found your video and I'm glad I did. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insights.

How bout you use double-sided tape.

I bought it about a half year ago with the lovely silent operation of the C18 in mind. This CXS12 is a disappointment. Don't know if Festool fixed it with a new release. Last week I was installing a closet with cabineos and in the back of a corner (where sound is amplified because of the 1/8th space loading) and it screams.

Good lord, your circular saw cuts like crap. My Dewalt 60v looks much closer to the track saw cuts.

fein did it

Price please & available in India

Festool drills are the best drills I’ve ever used. if you’re going to buy a drill get a Festool. The control and precision is more important than power or speed for more light to medium use tools. The case to holds multiple bits batteries and accessories that you’re not digging for which makes everything easier. I own Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita and the small Bosch and would trade them all for either the C18 and the PDC or the CXS 18 and a PDC. The CXS 12 is excellent for really light duty but is worth it for the multiple tasks it can perform for cabinet work or just putting up blinds. The size and weight are the a no brainer when in a cabinet or on a latter or working above your head. The old cxs was a one trick pony but the newer one is more versatile. The other brands are getting just as expensive with far less features. Check out the prices of their batteries, and the 12v batteries on the Bosch burn out pretty quickly. Buy the Festool you won’t regret it.

Bro i think you over thinking too much just get to work

pretty lucky to work in a pretty high end cabinet shop and i ended up with... an empire square lol.. honestly for any freehand stuff im gonna do its plenty good enough. if i need anything better ill use our big slider saw. that woodpecker almost got me.. more money for other tools heh.

Added to amazon cart. Might need to buy some tubing and adapters for my vacuum.

The hinge system is spot on, and it, along with their fence system, you can't go wrong. Working in a shared garage with the car, I often break down my workspace. I recommend getting the systainers for the hinge and fence for the times you need to pack up your kits. I also enjoy their MFT plugs for my bench. They produce premium products, and you can't go wrong with them if you are on the fence <pun>

My festool beeps like crazy with this attachment, only happens when using this sander 🙀

Like you I also live in southern Ontario. Where should I get the ujk drill guide and fence from? Is there a Canadian website? Thanks enjoy your content.